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By Mireille M. Lee

This is often the 1st normal monograph on historical Greek costume in English to be released in additional than a century. through using glossy gown idea to the traditional facts, this publication reconstructs the social meanings connected to the dressed physique in historic Greece. while many students have fascinated with person features of historic Greek gown, from the views of literary, visible, and archaeological resources, this quantity synthesizes the varied proof and provides clean insights into this crucial element of old society.

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22. Marble grave stele of a girl (“Hegeso stele”), ca. 410–400 bce , nationwide Museum 3624, Athens. ©Marie Mauzy/Art Resource, NY. who may rather be pointed out as foreigners, specifically slaves and mercenaries. we can't hence think that the looks of those clothing shows both Greek or foreigner in every case. Chiton Cheirodotos The chiton cheirodotos had an analogous uncomplicated constitution because the traditional chiton with the addition of tubular sleeves connected via stitching. 234 developed sleeves aren't a local Greek invention and will be traced to Persia. 235 A garment just like the chiton cheirodotos is worn through males in Achaemenid artwork. In Greek artwork the chiton cheirodotos is mostly worn by way of ladies (and as festive gown by means of men). a number of varied adaptations of this garment were pointed out; it truly is uncertain whether or not they will be thought of differing types. The status woman determine at the grave stele of Hegeso (Figure 4. 22) wears a long-sleeved garment, maybe the chiton cheirodotos, beneath a moment garment that 122 physique, D r e s s , a n d I d e n t i t y i n A n c i e n t G r e e c e four. 23. Red-figure hydria-kalpis, staff of Polygnotos, ca. 430 bce, Harvard artwork Museums/ Arthur M. Sackler Museum, 1960. 342, Cambridge, Massachusetts. picture: Imaging division ©President and Fellows of Harvard university. extends to the toes. This determine is mostly pointed out as a foreign-born servant at the foundation of her pose and gesture, in addition to her sleeved garment. 236 A shorter number of the chiton cheirodotos, attaining in basic terms to the center of the thigh and belted over a chiton, is worn by means of the status girl determine on a red-figure hydria-kalpis via the crowd of Polygnotos within the Sackler Museum (Figure 4. 23). the lady stands in entrance of a loom and gets a child from a seated girl donning a chiton and himation whereas watching at a status, beardless, guy donning a protracted himation and leaning on a employees. She is mostly pointed out as a Thracian nurse as a result of her sleeved garment with patterned borders like these at the Thracian zeira. 237 Margaret Miller, emphasizing the adoption of the chiton cheirodotos via Athenian girls, argues that this girl is the mum. 238 extra convincing as examples of Athenians donning the chiton cheirodotos are the photographs of ladies on choes made for the Anthesteria, an Athenian competition par excellence. 239 it sounds as if males additionally followed the chiton cheirodotos as pageant gown, as did musicians of either sexes. Miller argues that the chiton cheirodotos was once acceptable for clergymen and musicians since it used to be a high priced, sumptuous garment, which over-rode any adverse, barbarian connotations. 240 123 Garm ents Kandys one other sumptuous garment borrowed from the East used to be the kandys, a kind of sleeved coat, most likely of leather-based. 241 Xenophon (Anabasis, 1. five. eight; Cyropaedia, 1. three. 2; eight. three. thirteen) identifies the garment as Persian, and certainly it seems that in Achaemenid artwork worn by means of elite males, who draped it from the shoulders with the sleeves unused.

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